MOTORCYCLES

There are many different methods people use when they are changing a motorcycle tire. Using the right or wrong techniques is the difference between a quick and clean 10 minute job and the worst hour of your life. By using the simple tips and techniques below you will save yourself a lot of nicks and even more grief. The most important part of a changing a motorcycle tire is coming prepared.

Before you even attempt to change a motorcycle tire you have to make sure you are equipped properly. You are going to need a tire iron, a valve stem tool, lubrication, a bead breaker, compressed air, and something to expand the tire bead. Attempting to change a motorcycle tire with the majority of this equipment is going to make the task much more aggravating.
The first step to changing a motorcycle tire is getting that old and useless tire off. First off you should use your valve stem tool to remove all of the air from the tire. Next you are going to use your lubrication; this can be anything from dish soap or silicon spray on lubrication on both of the tire beads. You will also need to use your bead breaking tool to break both of the beads. Using your tire irons you will start removing the tire from the rim. Generally when you are changing a motorcycle tire you should place the tire irons four to seven inches apart.

Next you are going to insert the tube and align it with the approximate position of the valve stem. Once you have the tube in place you are going to need to add a small amount of air to it. This is done for two reasons while changing a motorcycle tire; first to help the tube retain most of it shape and secondly to help protect it from damage caused by the tire changing tools you are using. Lubricate the tire bead using the same type of lubrication you used before to get the old tire off. Next use your breezer tire tool to slowing position the tire bead onto the wheel rim. Use a rotating method so that you are working the opposite beads, one after the other. Now the only step left is to inflate the tire. Using compressed air, or a handheld pump, no stronger than 55 PSI inflate the tire and your changing a motorcycle tire experience in done!

James Thompson is the Publisher of mototips website. You can view more articles by visiting his web site at; http://www.mototips.com and read more helpful bike tips.

James Thompson is the publisher of http://www.mototips.com.

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1. General
Getting your suspension dialled in for your riding style is one of your first priority’s when you take your new bike out on the track. However, it is an on going process. What worked today might not suit the next track conditions you encounter next week. Therefore, you have to take on the role of test rider yourself and learn to identify problem areas. Never stop testing and thinking about what your bike is doing. Here are some practical tips for making your bike as good as it can be, stock or modified.

Spring Rates
There is again no way a manufacturer can know what you weigh. The “average” target weight for a full size motorcycle is a 75kg rider. Therefore, if you have a MX or current technology enduro bike, chances are the spring rates will be close for you. Of course, you will need to check and adjust your sag to be sure.
There are some expectations. If you ride in sand or mud a lot, you might want to do heavier springs. Pro class riders on four strokes will go for stiffer rates, as will x-treme jumpers.

Clickers
Often I will call a client on Monday after a race to see how he (or she) went. Occasionally I am met with the response of “it was too soft” or “it was to stiff” my next question is “What clicker position did you start out at and where did you end up? Did the adjustments you made help?”

“I DIDN’T TOUCH THEM, I LEFT THEM RIGHT WHERE YOU PUT THEM”
Anyone who knows a suspension tuner will realise how much this drives them nuts. Please adjust your clickers yourself. One adjustment at a time so you know what it is doing. Keep a note of where you started form, so if you get lost you can go back. Read your owners manual, it’s full of good stuff. Here is some more information that may help both revalved and standard suspension.

Washing
Wash your bike after every ride so you can inspect the fork chrome tubes for knicks or scratches that will lead to seal failure. For upside down forks keep the chrome tubes free of dry mud that the dust scrapers will not be able to dislodge.
For the shock, lift the bump stop up periodically with a screwdriver and wash under the bump stop. This is a common area where shock shaft corrosion starts. If the flap that protects the shock becomes damaged, replace it or the roost off the rear wheel will damage the shaft.

2- Fork Adjustments
Compression (C) clicker or adjuster is usually at the base of the fork; sometimes covered by a rubber plug, just flick it out with a screwdriver. (Compression clicker is on top for SHOWA twin chamber forks.

Rebound (R) is the top clicker for all forks other than twin chamber forks

Clickers, check the clicker settings are at the suggested positions. If in doubt, 10C and 10R is a good place to start.
After riding, raise the front wheel off the ground and release the air that builds up in the forks.

Triple clamps; Wipe the clamps out with a solvent, they must be clean and oil free. Use a “scotchbrite” pad if you need to remove any hard deposits. Feel the steering head bearings while you are at it do they move freely?

Axle; Check the axle for any nicks or burrs. NEVER HIT YOU AXLE WITH ANYTHING HARDER THAN BRASS OR PLASTIC. If your axle cannot centre in the axle foot, you will have a harsh feeling fork that you cannot remedy with clicker adjustment.
Install the forks and torque the triple clamps to manufacturers specification. Over tightening will cause binding in the upper tubes.

Set the fork projection through the top clamps to the stock position. If you have a projection preference and have not changed fork settings, set it to your previous figure.
Lubricate the axle with thin oil or WD40, run it through the feet and wheel bearings to ensure it is smooth.
Install the wheel and the axle, but leave the pinch bolts loose.
After all the other assembly, work is done, drop the bike off the stand, hold on the front brake and “pump” the forks several times to centre the axle and the fork legs. Tighten the pinch bolts with the bike still sitting on the ground. THIS STEP IS CRITICAL.

The remainder of this article covers Fork tuning specifics, motorcycle suspension problem solving, suspension shock adjustments and shocking tuning. The full article can be obtained by contacting Teknik Racing owner Nick Dole through their website www.teknikracing.com.

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