Effective Motorcycle Security

June 11th, 2008 by akeger

On the whole, motorcycle owners put more love and care into their machines
than do owners of cars or trucks. That “love and care” directly translates into
hundreds of dollars spent on customizations and maintenance. Sadly, between
30,000 to 50,000 bikes are stolen each year in the United States alone (based on
theft rates from 2000 through 2005). And to think, many of these thefts could have
been prevented with a little common sense and security.

Common Sense This should go without saying, but don’t leave the keys in
the ignition or the motor running when you’re not on the bike! Never leave your
bike in a dimly lit, hard to see location. Put the bike in your locked garage when you
are at home.

Locks and Chains One item every bike owner should purchase is a thick
U-lock or chain that can be easily spotted by anyone, day or night. This is a must-
have, unless its so big that it’s impossible to tote around with you. Simply wrapping
your chain through a wheel and your bike frame is not enough — you have to
mount the bike to a sturdy pole or clamp mounted in concrete. If the bike isn’t
mounted to a stationary object, a thief could just pack up your bike in a truck and
drive away.

Electronic Alarms Most modern bikes (larger than a scooter) have some
form of factory immobilization that prevents casual theft, but such immobilizers
alone won’t stop a determined thief. It’s therefore best to consider an electronic
security system, often called an “alarm.” A good alarm system does more than just
make noise, it has circuitry that prevents false triggers, adds secondary points of
immobilization, and sounds a loud siren only when a threat against your bike is real.
Some have digital tilt sensors, shock sensors and other sensors that trip the system
into action. One excellent electronic alarm from Japan is the CYCLONE 866F:
www.kiramek.com. The Japanese manufacturer of Cyclone also offers a 1-way
paging system that instantly alerts you when a threat occurs. The system is also
claimed to be very low-power, eliminating worry of your battery being drained.

Two-way Paging Alarms Over the last 3 years, some electronic alarms
have begun to include 2-way pagers. These systems allow you to both control the
alarm and receive notification of threats. Unfortunately, battery life for many of
these two-way pagers is limited to about 1 month, and the pagers
themselves can be easily broken by a simple fall from your pants pocket. Two-way
systems also may drain a bike’s battery quickly unless you ride it daily. Even so, for
some people the convenience aspect may outweigh the negatives for some bike
owners.

Tracking Systems As of 2005, some companies have come out with GPS
tracking systems for bikes that allow a stolen bike to be traced. While tracking
systems do have merits over other types of security, there are three important
downsides that must be considered: (1) battery drain on the bike, (2) service area
(tracking) coverage, and (3) monthly cost.

Most tracking systems require you to pay not only for the product itself but also
each and every month to keep the “service contract” alive. The long term cost of
tracking systems may leave a bad taste in the mouth of the average bike owner.
Think about how much you already pay per month (phone bill, mobile phone,
internet, etc.) and you can see why tacking on another subscription is cost
prohibitive.

LoJack is one tracking system manufacturer who does not charge any monthly fees,
but their least expensive bike system runs $595 and traceability is limited to the
coverage area of wireless towers installed by LoJack and some police stations. Once
your LoJack “protected” vehicle exits the coverage area, its off the map and not
traceable. Of course, LoJack will refund the price of the product, but that refund
doesn’t replace your bike. Nor does that refund cover any special installation fees
you might have paid or any insurance deductible you might have.

Conclusion Use a layered approach to security. Common sense dictates
that you put your bike in a location that is not an obvious target for thieves. You’ll
then need a chain or U-lock to prevent casual theft. And lastly, even if your bike
has a factory immobilizer, the addition of an electronic alarm or tracking system will
act as a significant deterrent to theft.

SECURITY RESOURCES:

CYCLONE Motorcycle Security


VISION 2-Way Paging Alarms


WORCH Tire Locks

ABOUT THE AUTHOR. James Wages has a BSEE from CSU Fresno and has worked
in the automotive security aftermarket since 1994.

Tags: alarms, , , , , , , , , , , , bike, cables, chains, cyclone, immobilizers, kiramek, locks, motorbike, motorcycle, scooter, security

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Knowledge is Power When Buying a New Motorcycle

May 16th, 2008 by akeger

So you’ve decided to buy a new motorcycle! What an exciting time this can be especially when you go into a dealership with a little bit of knowledge! It is important to know what you want, and to make sure your motorcycle fits your needs. Do your homework and understand completely what you’re looking for before you talk to a salesperson. There is a great web site called CycleBuy.com where you can find out the dealer invoice price and obtain a report on each bike. Remember the dealer is in business to think money and he will try and make at least 10% profit on your sale. Some of the more common fees are set-up fees, documentation fees, destination charges and taxes. It is difficult sometimes to find out what a dealership’s profit margin is, but it is somewhere between 5 and 15%.

Also know that the salesman will always try to sell you extra items including an extended warranty and all the accessories, because obviously the dealer makes money on this, too. It is a personal choice on which accessory or additional item you would like. If you are doing a trade-in, remember to do your homework as well. Check out this web site, www.kbb.com (Kelly Blue Book), as this will tell you what the price of the vehicle is when either selling it outright or trading it in. Try keeping the rule in mind that the dealer always wants to make at least 10% profit on each deal, so doing your homework means you may be able to talk them down substantially.

Most dealers are favorable to cash deals, but if you are financing try to put down a good portion of that in cash. You may want to use a personal line of credit or get a pre-approved loan from a lending institution before approaching a dealer. Some dealers may have low percentage loans they can offer you on certain models, and this may definitely influence your decision. If you sell your bike privately rather than trading it in, you are probably going to get more for it. Remember, the dealer wants to work with you so play hardball with him. Give them some of your other business such as riding gear and accessories as this can be used as a bargaining tool. After you will finalize the deal, you can almost always get them to sweeten it a bit more by throwing in the helmet or a jacket, since the salesperson has spent a lot of time and doesn’t want to lose the sale.

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Tags: engine, , , , , , , , , fuel problem, ignition, motor, motorbike, motorcycle, problem, repair, troubleshooting

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Motorcycle Troubleshooting

April 28th, 2008 by akeger

When troubleshooting a motorcycle, first start with the basics. These simple tests can work for any small engine. All engines need three basic things to run fuel, spark and air. These simple things can cause your motorbike to not start up or run poorly. First start off with the fuel remove the hose off the tank and make sure the fuel is flowing properly. Some bikes will have to turn the fuel selector to prime, not on, or fuel will not flow. Take a flashlight and look down into the tank, is the fuel varnished or is there dirt in the tank? Older motorbikes had a problem with tanks rusting inside and would plug the screen up inside the tank. Fuel delivery may still be a problem but we will come back to that later.

Next remove the spark plugs, you may need to remove the tank to reach them. Inspect every spark plug as you take them out. All the spark plugs should look the same. If a plug looks white colored, that cylinder may be (lean) and not getting enough fuel. If you have a plug that looks wet and black, that cylinder may getting too much fuel (rich) or not sparking good. Remove all the spark plugs and snap the plugs back into their wires. Set the spark plugs on the engine so that they can ground themselves. Crank the bike over and watch the plugs for sparks, preferably somewhere dark. Make sure you look at all the plugs to make sure they are all sparking. If one spark looks weak check the wire and plug, if old or worn replace them. If their is no spark the coil may be bad.

If you have any test equipment such as an ohm meter, you can find out what the resistance reading should be for your bikes coils. This way you will know for sure if the coils are o.k. If the ignition system looks fine move on to the carburetors. First, if the bike has not been maintained recently (a problem in itself) make sure the carbs are synchronized. To do this you need a vacuum gauge made for this. Remove the small rubber plug located between the carbs and the cylinder. Attach the gauge and take the readings from each cylinder. Replace the caps when not measuring or it won’t run right. Adjust the throttle screw or linkage for that carb until they all read close to one another.

Refer back to inspecting the spark plugs. If one cylinder looked lean or rich check all hoses for cracks and air leaks. If the motorcycle has not been run in awhile the carbs may be (gummed up). Remove the float bowl off the bottom of the carb. Look in the bowl for dark varnish looking gas. If the fuel looks dark you will probably have to remove the pilot and main jets and carefully run a wire through the center hole to clean them out. Be careful to not bend the float as the height needs to be correct to run well also. Check that the small needle attached to the float between the pivot point, is moving up and down. If it doesn’t move smoothly the carb will not fill up with gas or will run low as your driving down the road.

Make sure you check the battery also, if they become weak the ignition system won’t have enough power to keep the bike running smoothly. If you still haven’t found anything make sure you valve lash has been checked at the correct mileage intervals. If not this can cause many problems with the way it runs. Also you can screw a compression gauge into the spark plug holes and check that they are within 5-10% of each other. If one is way down you have a serious problem either with the pistons, bore or valves. This should be a good start to finding a general problem with your motorbike.

Jerry Lemke is the owner of http://www.freeengineinfo.com
A site commited to repair and information of all types of vehicles.

Tags: engine, , , , , , , , , fuel problem, ignition, motor, motorbike, motorcycle, problem, repair, troubleshooting

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